Author: Ian Greenhalgh

Your conservatory is cold in winter because it is mostly glass and a lightweight roof, and both lose heat far faster than a brick wall. To make it warmer, work in this order: the roof, then the glazing, then draughts and floor, and only then the heating. Tired or misted glass units sit in the second step. At Cloudy2Clear Windows we replace only the glass, not the frame, so a conservatory with failed panes can be put right with little disruption.

This guide explains where the heat goes, what to tackle first, and how to choose heating that does not simply warm the garden.

Why your conservatory gets so cold in winter

A conservatory is built differently from the rest of your house. EDF Energy explains that it is made of large panes of glass with a plastic frame and roof, so it loses far more heat than a brick structure with an insulated, tiled roof. Even good double or triple glazing is far less insulating than a wall.

Three things combine to make the room feel miserable:

• The roof. Grand Designs Magazine reports that the roof is the biggest culprit, with typically around 80% of a conservatory’s heat lost through it when the roof is poorly insulated.
• The glass. EDF Energy notes that even the best-quality glazing loses heat more quickly than an uninsulated cavity wall.
• The way it behaves in sun. As Ideal Home notes, a conservatory gains heat quickly with a little sunshine and loses it just as fast in the evening. A north-facing one will always be cold and needs more permanent heating.

There is also a regulatory reason. Aircon Revolution explains that most UK conservatories meeting certain conditions are exempt from building regulations approval. Those conditions include being at ground level, under 30 square metres, separated from the house by external-quality doors, and having their own independent heating with its own controls. So many were never required to meet the insulation standards of the rest of the house.

The practical lesson is that heating a poorly insulated conservatory is a losing battle. Fix the building envelope first, and the heating you already have starts to work.

The order that works: roof, glazing, draughts, heating

Most advice online jumps straight to radiators. That is the last step, not the first. Here is the sequence that gets the best result for the effort.

Step 1: Deal with the roof

Homebuilding quotes energy efficiency expert Tim Pullen, who says that most of the heat in a conservatory escapes through the roof, and that most solar heat also enters that way. That is why roof insulation is described as a smart strategy for enjoying the space all year round. The same article describes properly insulating the roof, plus retractable awnings over glazing, as the ideal solution.

There are two broad routes:

1. Replace the roof with a modern insulated one. Grand Designs Magazine notes the job can be done in as little as a day, though it may take two or three.
2. Improve what you have by adding insulation to the existing roof structure and checking for slipped or damaged panels, which can let cold air in.

Roof work is a structural job in its own right, and a roof that is working hard to keep the heat in will also help with the damp problem many owners notice. If you see streaks of water or fogging on the inside of the roof, our guide to how to prevent condensation in a conservatory explains the causes. For ideas on handling condensation at roof and vent level, this piece on veranda condensation, roof and vent fixes covers similar ground.

If your problem is the opposite season too, our checklist on stopping conservatory heat gain before a roof upgrade shows what to consider before you commit to a new roof.

Step 2: Check the glass, the biggest surface in the room

Once the roof is dealt with, the walls of glass are where the next share of warmth escapes. This is where we come in. A conservatory’s side panels, doors and windows are fitted with sealed double glazed units. When the seal fails, the unit can mist up between the panes, and it no longer does the insulating job it was made for. A cracked pane lets cold air and moisture in as well.

Signs that a unit has failed:

• Fogging, cloudiness or droplets trapped between the two panes that wipe never removes.
• Cracks or chips, including hairline ones at the edge.
• A pane that feels noticeably colder to the touch than its neighbours on a winter morning.
• Persistent condensation on the inside around one unit when the others stay clear.

The fix does not require a whole new conservatory. Our approach is to replace only the glass, not the frame. That means lower costs and less disruption than replacing entire units, and a faster job. If the frames are sound, new glass restores clarity and brings back the energy efficiency of a working sealed unit. Our conservatory window repair service covers exactly this, and our double glazing replacement page explains how replacement glass works in other rooms.

We also offer eco-friendly insulated glass options, and our work is backed by a 25-year guarantee.

Glass choice matters beyond warmth. Many conservatory owners find the room noisy when it rains, because glass and roof panels carry sound. If that bothers you, read why your conservatory is noisy in the rain and how to quieten it, or look at our double glazing for soundproofing.

EDF Energy is honest about the limits: double glazing, blinds and shutters all reduce heat waste but work best alongside other insulation measures. That is why the glass step sits second in the order, not alone.

Step 3: Stop the draughts and warm the floor

Draughts around doors, vents and frames

Cold air creeping in makes a room feel colder than the thermometer says. The usual culprits in a conservatory are worn seals on opening windows and doors, tired gaskets, gaps where the frame meets the wall and loose roof panels.

The Energy Saving Trust recommends self-adhesive foam strips for opening windows, and metal or plastic strips with brushes or wipers for a longer-lasting result. It lists draught proofing around windows, floors and doors among the simple measures that cut wasted heat.

A few practical points:

1. Check the seals on every opening light and door by closing it on a sheet of paper. If it slides out easily, the seal is not doing its job.
2. Look at the hinges, handles and locks. A door that does not pull tight against its seal leaks air even when the seal itself is fine. Our locks, handles and hinges repairs put these right.
3. Keep trickle vents open where fitted. They are there to control moisture, and our guide on uPVC door draughts explains how to replace seals while leaving ventilation in place.
4. If you have patio-style doors between the house and conservatory, see our advice on patio door draughts.

For more background, our articles on draught proofing windows and what a window draught is, with causes and fixes go through the checks in more detail. A door whose glass or hardware has failed is something we repair directly: see our double glazed door repairs.

A floor that feels cold underfoot

If the floor is cold, the whole room feels colder than it is. Doors2Floors explains that an uninsulated slab is why a conservatory feels cold underfoot even when the air is warm. If you are relaying the floor, insulating beneath the finish is the one chance you get without doing the job twice.

If you are not relaying the floor, a thick rug is the simplest improvement. It will not replace insulation, but it takes the chill off.

Step 4: Choose heating once the heat stays in

With the roof, glass and draughts sorted, heating becomes far more effective. The main options, as described by Grand Designs Magazine, are:

• Underfloor heating, a popular choice for an orangery or garden room. Ideal Home quotes one window company director calling it by far the most effective heating for a conservatory, because stone or ceramic floors are always cold, and a room heated only by radiators has more cold zones than a brick extension.
• Trench heating, suited to rooms with large expanses of glass. The heat rising from the trench acts as an air curtain that limits heat loss, restricts draughts and helps prevent window condensation.
• Electric radiators, an option for rooms used irregularly in colder months.
• Extending the central heating, which the Eco Experts describe as usually the most cost-effective solution when connected to the home’s system, but only efficient if the conservatory is well insulated.

The last point is the one to remember. Even the cheapest heating wastes energy if the room leaks. Ideal Home also points out that the cheapest way to heat a conservatory is to insulate the space, add blinds and use the sun’s heat. If you want something with little initial outlay, a plug-in heater or electric radiator are likely the most cost-effective choices.

If your conservatory is used only at weekends, an electric option may suit. If you work from it every day, a permanent system connected to the house suits better. Match the heating to how you use the room, not to the size of the glass.

Step 5: Blinds, curtains and rugs

Soft furnishings are the quickest wins, and they work well alongside everything above. Ideal Home quotes a product design lead saying that curtains and blinds will massively reduce heat transfer, so the room stays warmer for longer. Cellular blinds, with honeycomb pockets that trap air, are the type experts recommend considering.

A few habits help:

• Close blinds or curtains at dusk, when the room starts to lose the heat it gained in the day.
• Open them on sunny winter mornings so the room can gain free warmth.
• Keep furniture away from radiators and vents so warm air can circulate.

When the cold is a glass problem

How do you tell whether the glass is behind your cold conservatory? Run through this list on a cold day.

1. Walk around and look at every unit for misting, cracks or discolouration.
2. Feel the glass. Cold spots on one unit but not others suggest that unit has failed.
3. Look at the seals and edges for gaps, shrinkage or damage.
4. Check the frame. If it is solid and square, glass-only replacement is usually all that is needed.
5. Compare rooms. If the main house windows are noticeably warmer than the conservatory glazing, the units are worth a closer look.

If the answer to any of these is yes, a repair visit is the quickest way to find out what you have.

Perspective: why glass-only replacement suits a cold conservatory

We have been installing, replacing and repairing double glazed windows since 2005, for homes and businesses alike. When a conservatory is cold, the instinct is often to replace everything. In many cases that is more than the room needs.

Our view is simple. The frame is usually the sound part of the structure. The glass is the part that wears out when the seal fails. Replacing only the glass means lower costs, less disruption and faster work than replacing whole units, and it gives you clear, energy-efficient glazing again.

The best result comes when the glass is part of a plan. Look at the roof, replace failed glass, seal the draughts, then heat the room. Each step makes the next one work harder for you. That is why we encourage you to treat the glass as a core part of keeping a conservatory warm, not an afterthought.

Our work comes with a 25-year guarantee, and we offer eco-friendly insulated glass options for those who want to do more with the room.

Conservatory glass repairs near you

We repair and replace glass in conservatories, doors, Velux windows and more, for homes, businesses and housing associations. Our conservatory window repair page explains what the job involves, and you can see everything we do on our services page.

Our operational hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm, and you can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote. Our landing page has the details.

Double glazing repairs in Coventry, Oxford, Stockport and beyond

We cover England and Scotland through local branches. Examples include Coventry, Oxford, Stockport, Milton Keynes and Norwich. Each branch page lists the areas it covers.

If you manage commercial premises or housing association properties, our inspection and full replacement services cover compliance as well as glass.

FAQ

How do I warm up a cold conservatory?

Start with the roof, where most heat escapes. Then replace failed glass units, seal draughts and insulate or cover the floor. Add heating last, because it works best in a room that keeps its heat. Blinds and curtains add warmth at little effort.

Is a north-facing conservatory always cold?

It will be colder than one that catches the sun, because it gains less free heat. Ideal Home quotes an expert who says a north-facing conservatory will need more permanent heating. Good roof insulation and sound glazing still make it far more comfortable.

Can I insulate a conservatory roof from inside?

Insulation is the right aim, as Homebuilding describes properly insulating the roof as the ideal solution. The method depends on your roof type and its structure, so have the roof assessed before deciding between improving it and replacing it. Check for slipped panels first, as they let cold air in.

Can I book a quote outside opening hours?

Yes. Our operational hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm, but you can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote.

Sources

• Conservatory insulation, EDF Energy
• How to make a conservatory warmer, Grand Designs Magazine
• How to make a conservatory warmer in winter, Ideal Home
• How to heat a conservatory, Ideal Home
• Why is my conservatory too cold to use in winter, Aircon Revolution
• How to keep a conservatory warm in winter, Homebuilding
• Draught proofing, Energy Saving Trust
• Conservatory flooring options, Doors2Floors
• A guide to conservatory heating, The Eco Experts

The cost of replacing a window handle depends on four things: the type of handle, how well the new one matches your existing mechanism, the condition of the lock behind it, and how easy the window is to reach. A straightforward swap on a healthy uPVC window is one of the smaller jobs in double glazing. A handle that has failed because the lock or espagnolette mechanism is worn needs a little more work. This guide explains each factor, what a supply and fit quote should include, and how to get an accurate quote quickly.

We have repaired and replaced double glazing hardware since 2005. We do not publish a price list for handles, because the right quote depends on your specific window. You can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote, and our operational hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm.

What decides the cost of a new window handle

Published UK cost guides agree on the main drivers. Handle type, material, finish and brand, whether it is fitted professionally, regional labour rates and job complexity all move the final figure. In practice these group into five questions.

1. What kind of handle do you have?

Most modern uPVC windows use one of a few handle styles:

• Inline handles: the handle sits in line with the spindle and is the most common style on casement windows.
• Cranked handles: the grip is offset from the spindle, usually for clearance reasons.
• Lockable handles: these take a key and add security, which matters on ground floor and accessible windows.
• Cockspur handles: these are used on older or specific frame systems and work differently from a standard spindle handle.
• Tilt and turn handles: these operate two opening positions and connect to a more complex gearbox.

The more specialised the handle, the more care goes into matching it. A lockable or tilt and turn handle takes more checking than a plain inline one.

2. How closely does the new handle match your mechanism?

A handle is only as good as its fit. Trade hardware guidance points to the handle type, the screw centres, the spindle length and size, and whether the handle is handed or not. A common set of dimensions is 43 mm screw centres with a 7 mm square spindle, but the existing handle should always be measured rather than assumed.

The same guidance explains why this matters. A spindle that is too short will not engage the lock, while one that is too long can stop the handle sitting flat against the frame. Either way, the window may look repaired but will not close or lock properly.

3. What condition is the lock in?

This is the factor that most often changes a quote. A handle can feel loose, stiff or broken when the real fault sits inside the frame, in the gearbox or the locking rods. If the handle lifts but the window will not open, or the handle turns without anything happening, the mechanism often needs attention too.

In that case, we replace the handle and deal with the lock or mechanism in the same visit. That is usually simpler and better value than returning twice. Our guide to repairing window locks shows what that work involves.

4. How many handles need replacing?

A whole house of windows with the same worn handles is a different job from a single broken one. When several handles are done in one visit, the setup and travel time is shared across the job. If you have a run of windows from the same installation, they often use the same handle size, which makes matching quicker.

5. How easy is the window to reach?

A ground floor casement is quick to work on. A first floor window, a conservatory roof vent or a window behind fixed furniture takes longer. Access affects time, and time is part of any labour quote. Commercial and housing association properties may also need scheduling around tenants or opening hours, which we plan for when we quote.

What a supply and fit quote should include

When you ask for a quote, it helps to know what a complete one covers. For a handle, a clear supply and fit quote should state:

1. The handle itself: its type, finish and whether it is lockable, with keys supplied if so.
2. Matching to your window: confirmation that the screw centres and spindle suit your existing mechanism.
3. Fitting: removal of the old handle, fitting of the new one and checking that the window opens, closes and locks smoothly.
4. Any mechanism work: a clear note if the lock or gearbox also needs repair, so there are no surprises on the day.
5. Finishing: fixing screws and cover caps, so the handle sits neatly.

A proper product listing shows how much comes with the handle itself. For example, a lockable inline uPVC handle from a national tool retailer lists a cuttable 40 mm spindle, 43 mm screw-hole centres, screws, a key and a cover cap. It is a non-handed design that suits concealed espagnolette and shootbolt systems. That kind of specification is what we check against your window before fitting.

Handle only or handle plus lock repair?

Not every handle problem is a handle problem. Use the table below to see what is likely to be involved.

If your handle is stuck rather than loose, our guide on freeing a stuck uPVC window handle safely covers what is happening and why forcing it can make matters worse. For door handles, see fixing a loose uPVC door handle.

Why a repair usually beats replacing the window

A failed handle rarely means a failed window. If the glass is sound and the frame is in good order, replacing the hardware restores the window. That is the same thinking behind our glass-only approach: we replace the part that has failed, not the whole unit. Independent UK repair guidance makes the same point, saying that a replacement handle or hinge is almost always worth repairing rather than replacing the whole window.

If your window has other problems, such as misted glass, a cracked pane or a frame that no longer seals, a fuller conversation is worthwhile. Our guide to replacing double glazing in 2026 helps you decide when each route makes sense.

Window handle replacement across our branch areas

We cover England and Scotland through local branches, so the engineer who visits knows the housing stock in your area. If you are in one of these areas, these are the pages to start with:

• Window handle replacement in Oxford and the surrounding area.
• Window handle replacement in Leicester and Loughborough.
• Window handle replacement in East Lancashire.

Other branches include Coventry, Milton Keynes, Stockport, Watford, Norwich, Chesterfield, South Manchester and South Birmingham. Local knowledge helps with the practical side: older properties often have older handle patterns, and newer developments often share the same hardware across every window.

Tilt and turn, conservatory and commercial windows

Some windows need more than a standard handle swap.

• Tilt and turn windows: the handle drives a gearbox that controls two opening modes. Faults here are often mechanism faults, so a visit starts with a proper inspection. Our guide to tilt and turn repairs explains the options.
• Conservatory windows: vents and roof lights can be awkward to reach, and the hardware is exposed to more sun and weather. See our conservatory window repair service.
• Commercial and housing association properties: handles and locks are part of security and compliance, and we can plan repairs across several units. See commercial window repair.

Our perspective on handle replacement

Most customers who call us about a handle expect the visit to be simple, and often it is. What surprises them is how often the handle is only the visible part of the fault.

We have been repairing double glazing since 2005, and our view is straightforward: fix what has failed, and nothing more. That is why we replace glass without replacing frames, and why we treat handles, locks and hinges the same way. A new handle on a healthy window is a quick, tidy job. A new handle on a worn mechanism is a short-term fix, so we check both before we finish.

We would rather you spend a call describing the problem than guess at parts. Tell us the make of window if you know it, what the handle does when you move it, and whether the window opens. With that, we can quote accurately, and our 25-year guarantee on our glass work reflects how seriously we take the standard of what we install.

Book a handle replacement with Cloudy2Clear Windows

If your window handle is broken, loose or stuck, our team can supply and fit a matching replacement, and repair the lock or hinge in the same visit if needed. We work with homeowners, business owners and housing associations across England and Scotland.

See our locks, handles and hinges repairs page for the full service. You can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote, and our operational hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm.

How to prepare for your quote

A few details help us give an accurate quote on the first call.

1. Count the handles: note how many need replacing and whether they are all the same style.
2. Describe the fault: loose, snapped, stiff, or turning with no effect.
3. Say whether the window opens: this tells us whether the mechanism is involved.
4. Note the window type: casement, tilt and turn, conservatory vent or door.
5. Mention access: upper floors, furniture or restricted spaces.
6. Take a photo: a clear picture of the handle and the frame edge helps us match it.

If you are unsure about any of these, describe what you see and we will work it out with you.

Security and safety when a handle fails

A broken handle can leave a window unable to lock, which matters for home security and for insurance conditions on some policies. If a window will not lock, keep it closed and keep the area tidy until the repair is done. If a window is stuck shut, avoid forcing the handle, because that can damage the lock or the frame. Where a window is a fire escape route in a commercial or housing association building, report the fault promptly so it can be treated as a priority. Our inspection and compliance services support building managers who need to keep every window in working order.

FAQ

Is a window handle worth replacing, or should I replace the window?

In most cases the handle is the right thing to replace. If the glass and frame are in good condition, a new handle and any needed lock repair restore the window fully. We replace only the part that has failed, which keeps disruption low.

Can I use any handle on my uPVC window?

No, the handle has to match your mechanism. The screw centres, spindle length and size, and whether it is handed all affect the fit. Measuring the existing handle is the starting point, and a fitter will check this before fitting.

Will the handle replacement include a lock repair?

It can, when the fault goes beyond the handle. If the handle turns without effect or the window will not open, the lock or gearbox may need work. We assess this on the visit and tell you before we carry out any extra work.

How do I get a quote for a new window handle?

Call us at any time, as our line is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for quotes. Tell us how many handles, what the fault is and the type of window. Our operational hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm.

Do you replace handles for businesses and housing associations?

Yes. We repair double glazing hardware across private, commercial and housing association properties. We can plan work across several windows or units in one visit.

Sources

• Cost Guide to Replacing uPVC Window Handles
• Window Handles, JCP Hardware
• Yale PVCu Inline Lockable Window Handle White, Toolstation
• Home Structure Repair vs Replace UK 2026 Guide, Mend or End

If your double glazing is smashed, make the area safe first, photograph the damage, then book a repair. In many homes and businesses the frame is still sound, so only the sealed glass unit needs replacing, not the whole window. At Cloudy2Clear Windows we replace just the glass, and you can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote.

This guide takes you through the first hour, the evidence to gather, the insurance and landlord questions, and what a proper repair involves. It is written for homeowners, business owners and housing association managers across the UK.

What to do in the first hour

A smashed window is stressful, but a calm order of tasks protects you and makes the repair and any claim simpler. Follow these steps in order.

1. Keep people and pets away from the glass. Shut the door of the room if you can. Fragments travel further than you expect, and bare feet are the usual victims.
2. Photograph and film the damage before you touch anything. Take wide shots and close-ups from several angles, inside and out, including any sign of forced entry. Insurers and landlords both ask for this evidence, and it is much harder to produce after you have cleaned up.
3. Clear loose glass carefully. Wear thick gloves and sturdy shoes. Use a brush and pan for larger pieces, then a damp cloth or paper towel for slivers. Never use bare hands or a household vacuum on sharp shards.
4. Cover the opening. Cardboard, thick plastic sheeting or a board fixed over the gap will keep out rain, wind and draughts until the glass is replaced. Fix it to the frame or wall securely, so it cannot blow loose.
5. Report it if a crime may be involved. If there are signs of a break-in or deliberate damage, contact the police and ask for a crime reference number. Insurers commonly require it when you claim.
6. Contact your insurer or landlord. Do this before you commit to a permanent repair, so you know who is paying and what paperwork they need.
7. Book a glazier. Tell them the size of the window, how many panes are affected and whether the frame looks bent or damaged. Photos help us a great deal at this stage.

If the window is on an upper floor, over a pavement, or beside an entrance used by the public, make the area safe for others too. Business premises should cordon off the space beneath the opening until it is secure.

What a smashed double glazed window actually is

A double glazed window is made of a sealed unit: two panes of glass separated by a spacer bar, with a gap between them that is sealed at the edges. That sealed unit sits inside a frame, held in place by beads and gaskets.

When the outer pane smashes, the sealed unit has failed. Even if the inner pane looks intact, the seal is broken, so the unit no longer insulates properly and will mist or let in moisture. In practice, a smashed pane means the whole sealed unit is replaced, not patched.

That is good news in one respect. The unit is a separate component from the frame. If the frame is sound, you do not have to pay for a new window, a new installation and the disruption that comes with it. We explain more on our page about whether you can replace glass in double glazing without new frames.

Why double glazing smashes

Some causes are obvious, such as a ball, a thrown stone or a break-in attempt. Others catch homeowners by surprise.

The Double Glazing and Conservatory Ombudsman Service (DGCOS) explains that thermal shock and nickel sulphide inclusions can cause spontaneous breakage, and that fitting and the quality of the glass edge also play a part. If your window broke with no impact at all, mention that when you book. It helps us check the cause before we fit the new glass, so the same thing does not happen again.

Making it safe until the repair

A temporary cover is only a stopgap, but a good one prevents water damage, protects your home’s security and keeps your heating in.

• Use a rigid cover where possible. A board or thick sheet of plywood is more secure than a flimsy sheet of plastic.
• Fix it from the inside if you can. That makes it harder for someone outside to pull it away.
• Tape over cracked glass that is still in the frame. Strong tape across a crack can hold loose pieces together, but never push on glass that is still in place.
• Move furniture and valuables away from the opening. This protects them from rain and from view.
• Close curtains or blinds on the inside. They catch stray fragments if the glass shifts.

Do not try to lever out broken glass from the frame yourself. Sharp edges are hidden at the rebate, and the pane may be under tension. This is a job for a trained glazier, who has the right tools and gloves, and who will clear the old unit safely.

Repair or full replacement: what your glazier checks

The question we hear most is whether the whole window has to go. The answer depends on the frame.

The sealed glass unit can often be replaced separately when the frame is in good condition. Full replacement is generally needed when the frame is warped, rotting or structurally damaged.

When we look at a smashed window, we check:

• The frame material and condition. Uncracked, straight uPVC, aluminium or timber frames can usually take a new glass unit.
• The beads and gaskets. These hold the glass in. They are often reusable, but worn ones can be replaced at the same visit.
• The hardware. Handles, hinges and locks affect security and how well the window closes. We can repair locks, handles and hinges alongside the glass.
• The glass specification. A new unit can match what you had, or be upgraded. Energy-efficient insulating glass and soundproofing glass are both options if you want the replacement to do more than the original.

If the frame is beyond saving, we will tell you so. Our guide on replacing only the glass and checking the frame first explains how to judge this yourself before you call. For a longer view of when a whole window is the better decision, this overview of when to replace windows and doors covers the warning signs of a failing frame.

How long does a repair take?

There are two stages. First comes a survey: we confirm the size of the unit, the glass type, and the condition of the frame. Then the replacement unit is made to measure, because double glazed units are manufactured to the exact dimensions of each opening. Once it is ready, fitting is usually a quick visit compared with a full window installation, as the frame stays in place.

The manufacturing time depends on the glass specification, so a standard clear unit is generally quicker than a specialist type. We will give you a realistic timeframe when we quote. Because we replace only the glass, a visit causes less disruption than a full window change, and the work is generally faster.

Insurance: what to check before you claim

Whether your insurer pays depends on your policy and on what caused the damage. As an example of typical wording, Nationwide’s home insurance policy wording says buildings accidental-damage cover can include a broken window. Your own policy may differ, so read your schedule.

Before you phone your insurer:

• Find your policy schedule and check whether buildings cover includes accidental damage.
• Check the excess. If it is higher than the likely cost of a glass-only repair, a claim may not make sense.
• Gather evidence: photographs and video, dates, any receipts, written quotes, and a crime reference number if the police were involved.
• Ask before you repair. Some insurers want to approve the repairer or the quote first.
• Keep the old glass or photographs of it if the insurer asks to see it.

A written quote from a glazier is usually part of the claim. Tell us if you need one in a particular format, and we will help where we can.

Tenants, landlords and housing associations

If you rent, a smashed window is normally not yours to fix. Landlords are typically responsible for structural repairs, and broken windows generally count as part of the structure. Tenants should report the damage in writing as soon as possible, with photos and any crime reference number.

For landlords and housing associations, speed and communication matter. In one case, the Housing Ombudsman found maladministration where a leaseholder’s shattered balcony-door and bedroom-window glass led to delayed communication about who was responsible. The Ombudsman also pointed to a failure to consider evidence and household vulnerability, and ordered repairs with a realistic completion timeframe.

The practical lessons for a housing provider are simple:

• Log the report on the day it arrives and confirm in writing who is responsible.
• Treat ground-floor and entrance glazing as a security priority.
• Consider vulnerable residents, such as young children or older people, when setting the repair timeframe.
• Give the resident a realistic date, and keep them updated if it changes.

Our guide to landlord glazing responsibilities sets out who fixes windows and when. We also offer inspection services and window replacement for commercial and housing association properties through our commercial fenestration service.

Smashed glass in shops, offices and other premises

For a business, a smashed pane is a security, safety and trading issue all at once. Make the area safe for staff and customers, record the damage for your insurer, and arrange a temporary cover straight away. Then book a repair that gets the glazing restored with minimal disruption to trading.

Because we replace the glass rather than the whole unit, the work is typically quicker and leaves your shopfront or office frame in place. Our commercial window repair service covers business premises across the country.

Other kinds of smashed glass we repair

Not every smashed pane is in a standard window. We also repair:

• Double glazed doors, including patio and French doors, through our double glazed door repairs service.
• Conservatory glazing, where roof and side panels can be affected by impact, weather and movement, through conservatory window repair.
• Velux and roof windows, on our Velux window repair page.
• Caravan windows, listed with our other window repair services.

Smashed double glazing repairs across our branch areas

We operate nationwide through local branches, so the engineer who visits you knows your area. Examples include:

• Double glazing repairs in Oxford: see our Oxford branch.
• Double glazing repairs in Norwich: see our Norwich branch.
• Double glazing repairs in Leicester and Loughborough: see our Leicester and Loughborough branch.
• Double glazing repairs in East Lancashire: see our East Lancashire branch.
• Double glazing repairs in Coventry, South Birmingham, Milton Keynes, Stockport, South Manchester and Chesterfield: each has its own page on our site, starting with Coventry.

Our perspective: why we replace only the glass

We have installed, replaced and repaired double glazing since 2005, and the same pattern comes up again and again after a break. People assume the whole window is ruined. Most of the time it is not.

When a pane is smashed, the part that has failed is the sealed glass unit. If the frame is straight and sound, replacing that unit restores the window, and it means less disruption, less waste and a faster job than replacing the whole window. That is why we replace only the glass, not the frame.

We also think a repair is a chance to improve, not only to restore. When a unit has to come out anyway, you can choose energy-efficient insulating glass or glass that reduces noise, so the new unit works harder than the old one.

Our work comes with a 25-year guarantee, and we cover homes, businesses and housing associations nationwide. Whatever has happened to your window, our aim is the same: make it safe, then bring back its clarity and efficiency.

Book your smashed glass repair

If your double glazing has been smashed, our broken window repairs service replaces the damaged glass unit and keeps your existing frame wherever it is sound. For standard misted or failed units, see our double glazing replacement page.

Our lines are open for calls from 8.30am to 6.30pm, but you can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote. Have your photos, window size and a note of any frame damage to hand, and we will tell you what the repair involves.

Frequently asked questions

Can I repair a smashed double glazed window myself?

We do not recommend it. Broken sealed units have sharp edges, and a proper repair needs a new unit made to the right size and fitted correctly in the frame. A temporary cover is fine for keeping the weather out, but the permanent repair is best left to a glazier.

Do I need a whole new window if the glass is smashed?

Not usually. If the frame is in good condition, the glass unit can often be replaced on its own. A new window is generally needed when the frame is warped, rotting or structurally damaged.

Why did my double glazing crack without anything hitting it?

Spontaneous breakage can come from thermal shock or from tiny inclusions in the glass. Fitting and the quality of the glass edge can also contribute. Tell your glazier what happened, so they can check the cause when they replace the unit.

Who pays when a tenant’s window is smashed?

Broken windows generally fall under the landlord’s responsibility as part of the structure. Tenants should report the damage in writing as soon as possible, with photos and any crime reference number. Whether the landlord’s insurer pays depends on the policy and the cause.

What should I do first if my window is smashed at night?

Make the area safe, photograph the damage and cover the opening with a rigid board or thick sheeting. If there are signs of a break-in, call the police. You can call us at any hour, every day, to book a quote for the permanent repair.

Sources

• What to Do If Your Window Is Smashed?
• Spontaneous glass breakage explained, DGCOS
• Double Glazing Repairs: Fix vs Replace Guide
• Nationwide Home Insurance policy wording
• Housing Ombudsman decision: London & Quadrant Housing Trust (202528883)
• When it’s time to replace your windows and doors

Most uPVC door lock problems come from the door, not the lock. A door that has dropped or shifted with the weather stops the bolts meeting the keeps in the frame, so the handle feels stiff or the key will not turn. A worn gearbox or a tired cylinder causes the rest. This guide shows you how to tell which fault you have, what is safe to check yourself and when it is time to call us.

If your door will not lock at all, skip to the section on securing it temporarily. If you want an expert to look at it, you can call Cloudy2Clear Windows 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote. Our operating hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm.

How a uPVC door lock works

Most modern uPVC doors use a multipoint lock. Lifting the handle drives a long strip up the edge of the door, and several bolts, hooks or rollers engage with keeps in the frame. Turning the key then throws the deadbolts. This is why one small fault can affect the whole door. A multipoint lock engages several bolt points into the frame when you operate the handle, and it is near-universal on modern uPVC openings.

There are four parts that tend to cause trouble:

• The door and hinges. If the door has dropped or shifted, the bolts no longer line up with the keeps.
• The keeps. These are the metal plates in the frame that receive the bolts. If they are out of line, the lock catches or jams.
• The gearbox. This is the central mechanism the handle connects to. It moves the multipoint strip.
• The cylinder. This is the part the key goes into. It operates a cam that throws the deadbolts.

Knowing which part is at fault saves time. It also means you only pay for the repair you need, rather than a whole new lock.

The most common uPVC door lock problems

The handle will not lift, or feels very stiff

This is the problem most people search for first. A uPVC handle that will not lift to lock is usually down to door misalignment, a worn locking mechanism, a dropped door or a fault with the handle. A stiff handle often means the bolts are pressing against the frame instead of sliding into the keeps.

The key turns but nothing happens

If the key turns freely and the bolts do not move, the cam or the gearbox has usually failed. The cylinder may be spinning without engaging the mechanism. This needs a proper repair and cannot be fixed by lubricating the lock.

The handle is floppy or spins

A floppy handle that does not spring back usually points to a worn handle spindle or a failed gearbox. Typical gearbox symptoms are a handle that is floppy or will not lift with the door open, or a handle that lifts while nothing moves on the multipoint strip. If the handle only feels loose on the door, our guide to fixing a loose uPVC door handle covers the causes.

The key will not go in or turns only part way

A key that will not insert fully, or sticks halfway, often means a worn, dirty or damaged cylinder. A bent or worn key can also be the cause, so try the spare key before you decide.

The door will not lock in hot weather

If your door locks fine in the morning and sticks in the afternoon sun, heat is a likely cause. A uPVC door that will not lock in hot weather is usually suffering from thermal expansion and misalignment rather than a failed lock. The daily pattern of sticking when hot and working when cool is the giveaway. Our article on why uPVC doors in UK homes stick explains the movement in more detail.

The door drops or catches on the frame

Over the years, hinges loosen and the door sags slightly. One UK guide, citing Master Locksmiths Association member surveys, reports that sagging doors account for over 60% of uPVC lock call-outs. If you can see a gap at the top corner on the lock side, or the door scrapes the threshold, read our guide to a dropped uPVC door. If the door will not close properly, uPVC door not closing is also worth a look.

A quick way to find the fault: the open-door test

This check takes a minute and tells you where to look. It needs no tools.

1. Open the door and keep it open.
2. Lift the handle and lower it again. Notice whether it moves smoothly and the bolts extend and retract.
3. Turn the key with the door open, if your lock allows it, and watch the deadbolts.
4. Close the door and try again.

Here is how to read the result.

The open-door test is a practical first diagnostic: if the mechanism works normally with the door open, the fault is likely alignment rather than a failed lock. The Master Locksmiths Association recommends adjusting the hinges before replacing any lock part, which fits the same logic: fix the door position first.

Safe checks before you call anyone

You can do a few simple things without risk to the lock. Stop if any of them feels forced.

• Look at the keeps. With the door closed, check whether the bolts line up with the holes in the frame plates. Marks on the frame show where a bolt is hitting.
• Check the hinges. Look for loose screws or a door that has visibly dropped on one side.
• Clear the cylinder. Dust and grit can make a key stiff. A short spray of a suitable lock lubricant, not general-purpose oil, is the usual approach.
• Try the spare key. A worn key is a common and easily overlooked cause.
• Clear the frame. Check the bolt channels for debris, paint or anything in the way.

The most important rule is not to force it. Forcing a heat-bound door strains the multipoint gearbox, which is described as the component most likely to fail under that stress. A small alignment fault can then become a mechanical breakdown. If the door needs a hard shove to lock, leave it and call us.

When to call a professional

Some faults are beyond a quick adjustment. Call for help if:

• The door binds badly or does not sit squarely in the frame.
• The handle has become very heavy to lift.
• You can hear or feel the gearbox struggling.
• The lock is completely jammed and you cannot open the door to reach the fixing screws.
• The lock system is a complex multipoint one that needs specialist realignment.

This matches the guidance in advice on how to tell a DIY tweak from a professional job. Wickes advises calling a professional if a lock is jammed shut or a multipoint system needs specialist realignment.

Our team repairs and replaces locks, handles and hinges on uPVC doors and windows. See our locks, handles and hinges repairs page for what we cover.

Patio door lock problems

Patio doors share many faults with hinged uPVC doors, but they move differently. Sliding doors run on rollers along a track, and the lock is a hook or latch that catches a keep on the frame. Many patio doors also use a multipoint system on the handle side.

The usual causes are:

• Worn or dirty rollers. The door sits lower on the track, so the hook no longer meets its keep.
• Debris in the track. Grit stops the door from closing fully, so the lock cannot engage.
• A misaligned keep. The door has moved slightly and the hook misses the receiving plate.
• A worn handle or gearbox. The handle turns but the hooks do not move.

The same open-door logic applies. Slide the door to the closed position and see whether it reaches the frame squarely. Then check whether the handle operates smoothly while the door is away from the frame. If the door is heavy to slide or drops on its rollers, the rollers need attention before the lock does. Look after the track by clearing visible dirt, but leave roller and keep adjustments to a professional, since a heavy glazed door can be dangerous to lift.

If the glass on a door or patio panel is misted or cracked at the same time, we can replace the glass unit without changing the frame. Our double glazed door repairs page explains how this works.

Securing a uPVC or patio door when the lock will not engage

A door that will not lock is a security problem, so deal with it the same day. These steps are stopgaps until a repair is done.

1. Try lifting the handle fully, then turning the key. On many multipoint locks the key only works if the handle is lifted first.
2. Check for obvious obstructions. Look at the threshold, the keeps and the bolt channels.
3. Use the door’s other fixings. If the door has a separate night latch, security bolts or a chain, use them.
4. Add a temporary barrier on the inside. For a patio door, a bar or wedge in the track stops it being slid open from outside. Make sure it can be removed quickly, so nobody is trapped in an emergency.
5. Do not leave the home empty with a door that will not lock. If possible, arrange a repair before you go out.
6. Tell your insurer if the problem persists. Policies often have conditions about locks, so check yours.

If the door is jammed shut and you cannot open it, do not use force. Call us and describe what is happening.

Lock security standards worth knowing

When a lock or cylinder is replaced, the quality of the new part matters. Master Locksmiths Association guidance sets minimum cylinder expectations under BS EN 1303 and notes that standards such as TS 007 may be required where doors are at risk of cylinder attack. The Association’s minimum security guidelines for domestic property also set requirements for multipoint locks. If you are replacing parts, ask which standards the new components meet.

Weak points are not only the lock. If your door has a glazed panel beside or within it, the glass is part of the security picture. Our article on door glass security with P1A laminated glass explains the option. Once the lock works properly, it also makes sense to look at other entry points around the home, as these home proofing tips for autumn show.

Our perspective

We see the same pattern again and again: a homeowner assumes the lock has failed, and the real cause is a door that has moved a few millimetres. That is why we start with the door position and the keeps before we recommend a new part.

When a lock part does need replacing, a proper repair is more sensible than living with a door that is hard to lock. A struggling mechanism gets worse, and the strain can spread to the handle and the frame.

Lock faults also show up alongside glazing faults. A door with a misted or cracked glass unit often has tired seals or hardware too. Because we replace only the glass and not the frame, we can deal with both in one visit where needed, with less disruption than a full door replacement. Our work is backed by a 25-year guarantee.

If you are unsure what is wrong, describe the symptoms to us. We would rather diagnose it properly than have you force a door that is already under strain.

Door lock repairs near you

We work across the UK through local branches, so the engineer who visits knows the area. Here are some of the places we cover:

• Double glazing repairs in Coventry
• Double glazing repairs in Milton Keynes
• Double glazing repairs in Stockport
• Double glazing repairs in Watford
• Double glazing repairs in Oxford
• Double glazing repairs in Norwich

If you manage a block, a housing association property or a business premises, the same applies. We also offer commercial window repair and inspection services for those sites.

Get your door locking properly again

Cloudy2Clear Windows has been installing, replacing and repairing double glazed windows and doors for homes and businesses since 2005. We repair the parts that have failed rather than replacing a whole door, which keeps the work quicker and less disruptive. You can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote, and our operating hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm.

Start with our locks, handles and hinges repairs page, or visit the Cloudy2Clear Windows homepage to see everything we offer.

FAQ

Why is my door handle not locking?

The most common reason is that the door has dropped or moved, so the bolts no longer line up with the keeps. A worn gearbox or handle can also stop the handle from lifting. Try the open-door test: if the handle works freely with the door open, alignment is the likely cause.

What should I do if my uPVC door will not lock or open?

Do not force it, as that can break the gearbox. Check the keeps and hinges, try the spare key, and make sure the handle is fully lifted before turning the key. If the lock is jammed shut or the handle is heavy, call a professional.

How can I secure a uPVC door that will not lock?

Use any extra fixings the door has, such as a night latch or security bolts, and add a removable barrier inside. Avoid leaving the home empty until it is fixed. Arrange a repair as soon as you can.

Can a patio door lock be repaired without replacing the door?

In most cases, yes. Faults usually lie in the rollers, the keep, the handle or the lock mechanism, and these can be repaired or replaced individually. Our engineers can assess it on site.

What is the average lifespan of a door lock?

It depends on use, the quality of the lock and how well the door is aligned. A door that is out of line puts extra strain on the mechanism and can shorten its life. Regular checks on hinges and keeps help it last.

Sources

• Why your uPVC door won’t lock (common fixes), Axiom
• Why won’t my uPVC door lock? Alignment, hinge and gearbox, squote
• Door security hardware: PAS 24 and BS 3621 standards, squote
• Why your uPVC door won’t lock when it’s hot, Breaking AC News
• How to fix and replace door locks, Wickes
• Master Locksmiths Association handbook, 2015
• Guidelines for minimum security for domestic property, Master Locksmiths Association, 2025

Condensation on patio doors is usually moisture from inside your home settling on the coldest large surface in the room. Wiping it away and improving ventilation often solves it. Where it sits matters. Droplets on the room side point to humidity. Droplets on the outside are a sign the glass is doing its job. Fog trapped between the two panes means the sealed unit has failed, and only new glass will clear it.

This guide helps you work out which of the three you have, what to do about each, and when it is time to call a glazing specialist. It applies equally to sliding patio doors, French doors and bifold doors.

Why patio doors mist up more than other windows

Condensation forms when water vapour in the air cools and turns into tiny droplets. RICS explains in its consumer guide that this happens on any cold surface at or below the dew point of the room air. It is most visible on window glass, but walls can suffer too.

A patio door is a very large sheet of glass, often facing the garden and often in a room with a lot going on. That combination makes it the first place you notice moisture. Rhino Aluminium notes that large areas of glazing make condensation more noticeable, particularly on north-facing elevations, in new extensions and in rooms where cooking, showering or drying clothes add moisture to the air.

A few everyday habits add to the load:

• Drying laundry on radiators or airers in the same room.
• Cooking without an extractor or a lid on the pan.
• Closing every vent to keep the heat in.
• Heating a room only in short bursts, so the glass stays cold between heating periods.
• Keeping the room packed with plants or a lot of people over an evening.

If you would like the science in more detail, our guide on how condensation forms explains it for property owners.

Inside, outside or between the panes: what each one means

Before you change anything, look closely at where the moisture is. This one check decides the whole fix.

To test, wipe the glass with a dry cloth. If the droplets move or disappear, they are on a surface. If the haze stays exactly where it was, it is inside the unit.

Condensation on the outside of the door

This one surprises people. The Glass and Glazing Federation (GGF) explains in its condensation booklet that condensation on the exterior of energy-efficient windows and doors is a natural phenomenon. It is a clear sign that the glazing is stopping heat escaping from the house. The outer pane stays cold on clear, still nights, so dew forms on it, much as it does on a car windscreen.

It tends to appear on cool mornings and fade as the day warms. You do not need to treat it.

Condensation on the inside of the door

This is the moisture you can do something about, and most of this article is about it. If it appears every cold morning and clears by lunchtime, your home is holding more moisture than the air is carrying out. If it never clears, or the frame and seals look dark and damp, treat it more seriously.

Fog between the panes

A double glazed patio door is made of two sheets of glass sealed around the edge with a gap between them. When the edge seal fails, moist air enters the gap. The moisture can no longer be wiped away because it sits inside the unit. You might see a milky haze, droplets that come and go with the weather, or a line of mineral staining at the bottom.

This is a fault in the glass unit, not a ventilation problem. Better airing of the room will not clear it. The sealed unit needs replacing, and in most cases the frame, track and handles can stay exactly where they are.

How to reduce condensation on the room side

The goal is simple: take moisture out of the air and keep the glass from getting too cold. Work through these in order.

1. Use the ventilation you already have

The GGF advises that condensation on the room-side surface is reduced by natural ventilation through an opening window section, a proprietary ventilating unit or an airbrick, and by checking that trickle vents are open. Many patio doors have a trickle vent in the top of the frame. If yours is shut, open it. If your door has none, a window in the same room or a wall vent can do the job.

The same booklet recommends opening at least one window in each room for part of each day to change the air. Ten minutes of a wide opening after cooking or showering is worth more than a slightly open window all evening.

2. Know the difference between background and purge ventilation

The FENSA Guide to Compliance describes two kinds of ventilation. Purge ventilation removes high levels of water vapour and pollutants quickly, for example after a shower. Background ventilation, most commonly through trickle vents, lets a dwelling breathe all the time and protects the building fabric from condensation and mould.

Think of it this way: trickle vents handle the steady build-up, and opening doors and windows handles the spikes.

3. Do not seal the house too tightly

Draught-proofing is sensible, but it should target unwanted gaps. Window Warehouse points out that blocking intentional ventilation can leave a home with poorer air quality and more condensation. If you are fixing draughts around a sliding door, leave the trickle vents alone. Our guide to patio door draughts explains which gaps to deal with and which to leave.

4. Control moisture at the source

• Run the extractor fan during cooking and showers, and for a while afterwards.
• Put lids on pans.
• Dry washing in a ventilated room with the door closed and a window open, rather than in the living room.
• Keep furniture a little way from the glass so air can move across it.
• Open curtains and blinds in the morning so the glass is not cut off from room warmth overnight.

5. Keep the room evenly warm

Warm air holds more moisture, and cold glass is where it drops out. A steady, moderate temperature is kinder to a patio door than a room that swings between cold and hot. Our step-by-step condensation prevention workflow lays out a routine you can follow through the winter.

Sliding doors and French doors: any difference?

The cause is the same for both: warm, damp air meeting cold glass. The practical differences come from how each door is built.

Sliding doors have very large panes and a fixed section next to the opening one. The fixed pane has no trickle vent of its own and no way to open, so you rely on the opening sash, the head of the frame or a nearby window. Check the track at the bottom too. Water that collects there needs clearing, and a blocked drainage slot can leave moisture sitting against the frame.

French doors have a pair of opening leaves with a meeting point in the middle. Because the glass is divided into smaller panes, there is less cold surface per pane, but the leaves rely on their seals closing evenly. If one leaf has dropped slightly, you can get draughts and cold patches that encourage condensation. Adjusting hinges or replacing worn gaskets often helps. Our lock, handle and hinge repairs cover this kind of adjustment.

Bifold doors have many panes and many seals. Any single failed unit can mist, so check each pane rather than assuming the whole set is the same.

Is it condensation or damp?

Moisture around a patio door is not always condensation. RICS describes penetrating damp as water moving from one side of a wall, ceiling, roof or floor to the other, for instance through broken sealant around a window that lets rainwater in. Condensation, by contrast, comes from inside the room.

Three checks help you tell them apart:

1. Timing. Sussex Damp Experts say that a problem that is worst in cold weather, in the morning, or after showers and cooking points towards condensation. A patch that is clearly worse after rain on one side of the house points towards penetrating damp.
2. The after-rain test. Note how the area looks after a few dry days. During the next spell of steady rain, look again within hours and over the next day or two. The same source says that if the patch darkens, spreads or starts to drip where it did not before, water is probably coming in from outside.
3. Location. Condensation gathers on cold glass, frames and sills. A patch with a defined edge on the wall beside the door, or staining below the threshold, deserves a closer look at the outside: sealant, mortar, gutters and the threshold itself.

RICS advises finding out where the moisture is coming from before trying to solve it, and suggests checks anyone can make, such as looking for leaking gutters, ill-fitting doors and windows, and broken sealant or mortar around windows and doors. If you suspect water coming through the structure, record what you see with dated photographs. Guidance on how a flood damage assessment works and what to document shows the sort of notes and photos that help when someone needs to assess water damage. For anything beyond the glazing, RICS recommends a specialist building surveyor.

Our own articles on condensation versus damp and the different types of window condensation go further.

Is it normal for large glazed doors to mist?

Occasional light condensation on a big glazed door on a cold morning is common. The glass is the coldest part of the room, and it is the first place moisture shows. It is worth investigating when:

• It happens every day, even in mild weather.
• The moisture runs down and pools on the sill or track.
• You see black mould on the seals, frame or nearby plaster.
• The frame feels damp or the sill is stained.
• The haze is between the panes and never wipes off.
• The door feels noticeably colder or draughtier than it used to.

Heavy, persistent room-side condensation tells you that moisture or airflow needs attention. Haze inside the unit tells you the glass has failed. Our guide on how to identify window issues in your UK property gives a fuller checklist.

Our view: replace the glass, keep the door

Perspective

When a patio door has misted between the panes, many homeowners assume the whole door has to go. In our experience that is rarely the case. The frame, the track, the handles and the locks are usually in good order. It is the sealed glass unit that has failed.

That is why we replace the glass only. Since 2005 we have been repairing and replacing double glazed units across homes and commercial properties, and the approach is designed to mean lower costs, less disruption and a faster job than replacing a whole door set. Your door stays where it is, and the new glass is made to fit it.

It is also a chance to improve the door. New sealed units can be specified as energy-efficient insulating glass, and we can also supply soundproofing glass where road or neighbour noise is a concern. Our work comes with a 25-year guarantee.

Our advice is to sort the moisture in the room first, then deal with any failed glass once and properly. Clear glass, a door that slides or closes smoothly and a warmer room are all within reach without starting from scratch.

Misted patio door glass: how we can help

If you have found fog between the panes, we can replace the failed glass unit and leave your existing frame in place. We cover double glazed door glass, locks, handles and hinges, conservatory windows, Velux windows and caravan windows, as well as commercial and housing association properties.

Our double glazed door repairs and double glazing replacement pages explain the process.

You can call us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to book a quote. Our operational hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm. You can also start from our home page.

Patio door glass repairs near you

We work through local branches across England. If your patio doors are in one of these areas, our local teams can help:

• Double glazing repairs Coventry
• Double glazing repairs Stockport
• Double glazing repairs Watford
• Double glazing repairs Oxford
• Double glazing repairs Norwich
• Double glazing repairs Milton Keynes
• Double glazing repairs Chesterfield

We also cover South Manchester, South Birmingham, Leicester and Loughborough, and East Lancashire. For conservatories with glazed patio-style doors, see our conservatory window repair page.

A simple routine for winter

A few minutes a week keeps most room-side condensation under control:

1. Open the trickle vents on the door and windows before the cold weather begins.
2. Wipe moisture from the glass and the sill in the morning, so it does not soak into seals or sit on the frame.
3. Run extractors during and after cooking and showers.
4. Open a window in each room for part of the day.
5. Check the bottom track and drainage slots on sliding doors for debris.
6. Look at each pane once a month for any haze that stays put when wiped.

If you manage a block, a housing association property or a commercial building, the same checks scale up. Our inspection service and commercial window work helps keep glazed doors compliant and clear.

FAQ

Why is there condensation on the inside of my patio doors in the morning?

Overnight, the glass cools and the moisture in your room air settles on it. Breathing, cooking, showers and drying clothes all add to it. Opening the trickle vents, airing the room for a few minutes and keeping the room evenly warm will reduce it.

Is condensation on the outside of patio doors a fault?

No. Outside condensation is a natural effect that shows the glass is keeping heat in the house, as the GGF explains. It forms on cold, clear nights and usually clears as the day warms up. No repair is needed.

What does it mean if there is mist between the panes of my sliding door?

The sealed glass unit has failed and moist air has entered the gap. You cannot wipe it away, and ventilation will not clear it. The unit needs replacing, which usually means the frame and track can stay. We can replace the glass only.

Do French doors need a different fix from sliding doors?

The moisture causes are the same, so ventilation and humidity control apply to both. With French doors, also check that both leaves close evenly against their seals. With sliding doors, keep the track clear and make sure there is ventilation near the fixed pane.

How do I book a visit?

You can call us at any time, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, to book a quote. Our operational hours are 8.30am to 6.30pm.

Sources

• RICS: Damp and mould consumer guide
• Glass and Glazing Federation: Condensation booklet, April 2025
• FENSA Guide to Compliance
• Rhino Aluminium: Preventing door condensation
• Window Warehouse: Preparing your home for winter
• Sussex Damp Experts: Condensation, rising damp or penetrating damp
• Flood damage assessment: how it works and what to document